Jezebel recently ran a piece alleging that Marc Jacobs did not pay an underage model who worked 23 hours for him during NYFW (but she did receive clothing for walking in his show). While this may seem surprising and even unethical, it seems that, “Jacobs is just one of many New York designers don’t pay their runway models.” The idea behind not doing so is that the men and women in fashion week shows receive high exposure. So do they not deserve a paycheck? In a statement regarding Jezebel‘s piece, Jacobs doesn’t seem to think so.
Surely 17-year-old Hailey Hasbrook didn’t intend to stir any fashion waters when she blogged about her NYFW modeling experiences. In fact, she was probably just thrilled to share them with the world, what with being a high school student walking for top designers. But when news outlets got wind that Hailey was working exhausting hours, facing an overly-demanding schedule from Jacobs and not making money, her innocent site started a controversy. While she has since come out and stated that Jacobs was, “actually one of the favorite jobs I have had so far,” and that she, “actually preferred to be paid in trade,” it’s done nothing to stop the tirade against the designer.
Jacobs himself responded with a short, succinct Tweet: “Models are paid in trade [clothes]. If they don’t want to work w/ us, they don’t have to.” Lots of people are baiting him for a more thorough response, but it doesn’t look as if they’ll get it. [via Jezebel]
It sounds like Hailey had a grueling NYFW experience (whether she enjoyed it or not is, in my opinion, irrelevant here). But she did go into it knowing there would be no pay from Jacobs, and walking in such a prestigious show will look amazing on a résumé and open up doors for her. So even if the payment isn’t instant, in the long run it probably won’t matter. While runway models theoretically do deserve monetary compensation for their work, the fact is that plenty of women will do it for free. So, until new rules are put in place, walking away with designer goods and massive exposure seems satisfactory enough to me.
What do you think of this issue? Should models be payed more than trade for all gigs?
guest
1.) 17 isn’t “underage” first of all. You can get a job at 17 and surely there are people under 17 model.
2.) Pay doesn’t always mean cash. I’d be happy if someone paid me in clothes. Marc Jacobs clothes are a lot of money and I’m sure it evens out to pay.
guest
I do think it would be good if they at least had the option to be paid in cash. Are they entitled to it? I don’t know. I’m not well-informed enough to form a solid opinion on the issue.
guest
She DID get paid. in clothes.
guest
sometimes maybe the models would rather get paid in clothes than in money. it’s something we may not understand, but sometimes people rather get paid not in cash.
daffodil / 1607 posts
It’s really, really hard to get to that point where you’re making bank as a model, it really is mostly fame and stuff like that
not all shoots pay that much! But I think of it as a model’s resume, just like a student’s resume. Not all of thes tudent’s activities are paid for, in cash, but she can still write it in her CV/resume/cover letter later on. Though… it’d be really nice to get some sort of pay. it’s just nerve wracking since you don’t know if you’ll ever get enough money in that industry
daffodil / 1607 posts
i believe this is part of the reason why that famous “models needs to eat too!” came about. as awesome as clothes are, can’t pay for food with them!
guest
Ok does anyone else here actually model? I do, and I have to tell you guys clothes/trade do NOT compensate for pay. If you did a little fashion show in the mall for a local business trying to get their name out there fine. Help out the under dog by taking clothes as trade. Marc Jacobs is making plenty of money off his designs. He can affford to pay these models and he should. That’s like saying actors get great exposure from the movies they do and it’ll look great on their resume so lets just give them some props from set and give them their wardrobe or a copy of the movie and call it a day. What if your last boss worked you to death and said “well this is great training for later on when you might get paid for all this work your doing!” Or if they told you they couldn’t afford to pay you cash but they would give you all the pizza you could eat (or whatever they have at your job). You would be pissed. Just because a job is enjoyable does not mean that it is easy or that a person shouldn’t get paid for it. Girls take time off of work to do these shows and many times end up losing money to do them. Victoriamisu is right, clothes don’t pay the bills.
guest
@Semper_medusa@xanga - clothes don’t pay your bills, put food on the table and pay your rent.
I absolutely think they should be paid in cash. Paying someone in clothes is what you do if they dogsit for you for a night or something – modelling is her full-time job, she should get paid cash for that. How else is she supposed to support herself?
sunflower / 353 posts
If she said herself that she prefers to be paid in trade, then I don’t see the problem; that’s a mutual agreement between the model and the designer. She IS only 17, so it’s good for her portfolio and she has plenty of time to grow.
BUT, someone like Marc Jacobs has too much money to be using “free” models as his sole policy. I do understand the willingness of some models to work for such a big name to get exposure, but they need to make a living too.
guest
I guess it’s like an “internship” then. You work your butt off but at the end either get a “good job” or very minimal pay.
guest
Whoooaaaaa, wait a sec…they don’t get paid??? The more I learn about the fashion industry, the more full of absolute bullshit it seems. It’s pretty conceited of designers not to pay them even a little bit, especially designers as huge as Marc Jacobs. I can see if you were a designer just starting out that you might not be able to afford to pay your models in cash. But then the fashion industry seems to be full of people who think that anyone who comes in contact with them should feel blessed just to wear their clothes, which may be true to some extent, but as numerous people here have already mentioned, clothes don’t pay rent or buy food. Personally I think it’s ridiculous not to pay your models, especially if you are a big-name designer that presumably has plenty of money.
sunflower / 352 posts
If she’s underaged as a model, then they can’t legally pay her cash so they pay in clothes. That’s fair.
But if they don’t pay the ones that are of age… then I don’t know.
I mean, people don’t have to walk in the show if they don’t want to; I’m sure there’s tons of other girls in line waiting for the shot, even if the pay is just in clothing.
guest
@daydreams_nightmares@xanga - If she agreed to be paid in clothes then she got paid. Plain and simple. If they first said that she would be paid in cash and then, after the fact, were like “screw you you only get clothes” THAT would be outrage worthy. However, she knew up front and agreed to the clothes
guest
i think it’s a lot like an internship or unpaid experiences. there are so many programs out there that not only want a person’s time, but wants that person to make a personal expenditure in order to “build up experience” in high school, college, whereever. if models deserve pay for fashion shows, so do people working in research, finance, programming, etc.
guest
They know before taking the job that they are not getting paid in cash. The experience and getting the publicity is really good that sometimes models don’t care if they get paid or not. I did a fashion show and did not get paid and did not get trade in clothes. I got pictures and exposure which helped my career. Modeling isn’t for the money. I do it for the fun of the job.
guest
if the show is paid, then everyone who participate should be paid as well.
orchid / 118 posts
what if we call it an internship?
guest
She got paid in clothes. Models have their right to sign any contract they’re offered and negotiate from there. I don’t see what the controversy is.
daffodil / 1607 posts
also to add on, even signed girls don’t get paid all the time. your compensation as a model depends on your fame, how wanted you are, same thing as any other person in whatever profession they’re in. they don’t always get paid. they work just as hard as models, if not harder, depending on what level they’re at. I’m not in NYC right now but I do get paid for shows and shoots I do, and I do also get paid for the research I do. However, I did not start off getting paid as a model, and actually paid to get my research position, meaning I paid a crapload for my school tuition. But it’s the same in each. For my research and internship positions, I learned from class and self studying how to program and some other science/math things, then got more ad more jobs as I added things on to my resume. Research positions required much of our time, we only got paid 10 hours a week since we’re students but we easily worked 30-40 hours a week as full time students with heavy course work in our classes, and stayed over night in the lab sometimes.
Modeling is hard, traveling back and forth and such but it’s still the same. you do a little work, collaborate with photographers and designers, sometimes for TFCD/TFP, then you start getting paid more and more one people start knowing your name. If you don’t want to do these jobs and strart off getting paid little, only in clothes, with pictures for your portfolio, or even nothing sometimes (which is rare since there’ll always be pictures) then you shouldn’t agree to it in the first place.
sunflower / 302 posts
I’m totally on board with everyone calling “sounds like an internship.” She worked 23 hours for an extremely renowned fashion designer, and received clothes as compensation. Most college interns work 40 hours a week for small shops, receive no compensation at all whether monetary or otherwise, and often have to apply for “course credit” for them — if you’re like me and went into college with so many AP credits you could graduate by the end of sophomore year, you have absolutely zero use for such “credit.” In fact, I’d have to pay my university for those credits to the tune of several thousand dollars. Sorry, companies of the world, I’m not going to shell out to fetch your coffee.
She got a pretty good deal, as far as American youth does today.
magnolia / 1357 posts
I believe they should be given the option to be paid in trade or in cash.
Some of these who are underage, in high school, living in their parents’ house or getting monthly allowances will probably choose trade. After all, they don’t need the cash.
But what about the girls who live with four roommates in NYC and who have to dish out hundreds of dollars to look beautiful every single day? Add to that food, transportation, and the occasional Friday night at a bar and cash will be preferred over trade.
guest
They should be compensated in some way. I mean I kind of assumed that models that participate in shows were paid. If they aren’t compensated with cash, then they should be compensated with clothing, or board, or something.
guest
I’m quite sick of hearing about this. It seems that the press simply want to bend Hailey’s words into a valid argument against Marc.
As someone who is familiar with the fashion industry (and as someone who has worked in other industries), the trade payment is not in any means “evil”.
The clothing offered is always (and I mean ALWAYS) worth more than what you’d receive in cash. In theory, walking a show, is simply for exposure/fame- NOT PAY. If a model wants to be paid, then they can do commercial work, and believe me, they are indeed aware of this.
& I find the FOOD & RENT argument fairly invalid since agencies provide a model with the essentials and necessities.
guest
I work in hospitality, and there are internships that PAY nothing, except you get on-shift meals. And during these internships, they work FULL TIME. Not just a day or two like in fashion shows..plus, the Marc Jacob models got clothing in return for their work at the fashion show..I don’t see what the problem is?
daffodil / 1607 posts
@xXxXxdOMxXxXx@xanga - Ah actually models do it full time. That’s why there are professional models then models who just model once a week/do a shoot here and there! Traveling takes up a lot of time too =\ so they could easily be doing shoots and runways every day of the week, traveling for a lot of it, and barely getting anything to eat. I did two full days in NYFW, and even then, I didn’t get to each from 11 AM to 2 AM each day friday/saturday, girls would faint from dehydration, it’s crazzyyyy. Buttt! If you read my comments above, I also understand the fact that they’re getting compesnated with clothing, but I do think it’s important for people to keep in mind that modeling is a full time job for those girls, especially ones who go and get signed. BUT I also think that, like other areas of expertise and liek i mentioned in my previous comments, thereis always a starting point and many internships/volunteer experiences dont pay, like the one you mentioned.
guest
so THAT’S why they never buy food!